What I’ve learned about chaga and fire.
Firstly I want to say that I’m by no stretch of the imagination
an expert in anything, I’m just a guy with an interest in outdoors skills. I have been hunting chaga for over a year and a half casually, and have found a small number of specimens. Recently I found and harvested a largepiece of quality chaga, and now that I’ve had time to experiment with good samples I’d like simply to share what I’ve
learned.
Identification
Inonotus obliquus (also called chaga or true tinder fungus) is a parasitic fungus that
grows on only a few species of trees, but is most commonly found on birch
trees. The fungus is relatively rare and only grows on live trees. Do not bother
looking on dead trees because the fungus cannot survive on a dead tree. To
identify Inonotus obliquus I look for a black, charred looking section
of the tree. I usually spot chaga in places where the tree has been damaged and
it often looks like a burned burl. The fungus has a hard black exterior, an
inner firm brown layer, and an innermost layer that is soft (cork like) and orangish-yellow
in color.
| Chaga on a birch |
| Chaga cut open... note the orangish interior. This was a mediocre specimen. |
Harvesting,
Preperation and Use
Harvesting chaga is
simple… just hack or cut the fungus off the tree and section it into manageable
chunks. That part of the fungus that
works best for fire is the softer, spongy, cork-like orangish-yellow part. The
firmer brown parts will work as a coal extender but I’ve found that they do not
take a spark from a flint and steel very well. To prepare chaga for fire usage
simply air dry it for a few days. I have not needed to dry chaga
fast but I imagine that the process could be sped up with sunlight or by
putting the fungus near a non-spark throwing heat source.
| "Good" chaga at left, "poor" chaga at right. Note the yellowish color and and spongy texture of the better chaga versus the woody texture and brown color of the subpar chaga. |
Once dried, chaga
can be used to catch sparks from many sources. Ferrocerium rods obviously will work well. I like to hold the striker steady and pull the rod back, but whatever technique you usually use will work well. Here is a quick video of lighting chaga with a ferro rod (excuse my poor technique, I was trying to make sure the camera got the shot):
Even the small sparks from a flint and steel quickly form an ember. For flint and steel I use the fungus
the same way I use charred cloth: I hold the fungus on top of the flint near the striking edge with my left (non-dominant) hand and I strike down with the steel in my right (dominant) hand.
I have a couple of pieces of chaga that I lit two days ago and then
submerged the fungus in
water for several seconds to extinguish the embers. Today I was able to
easily light the same fungus with a couple of strikes of my flint and
steel:
Be warned that the embers smolder
very well and I've discovered that the tiniest of sparks can start an
ember which may go unnoticed. Chaga
embers are difficult to extinguish that you need to be very careful
and either use the entire fungus chunk or extinguish it in water.
Here is a lit piece of Inonotus obliquus in the light:
And this is the same piece of fungus about 20 seconds later with the lights off.
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